Summary

Speedplay pedals are very good to ride on. They took a little bit of getting used to (like floating on ice is common feeling), but now I don’t want to go to any other system. They are light, small and easy to use. I’ve never had any problems when actually cycling with them, and since pedalling is so important, this makes me want to like them and overcome any faults they may have.  The main drawback of Speedplay pedals is that they have been an expensive choice. In particular, they are more prone to long-term maintenance problems. Three times I’ve had to throw away a pair because the internal bearings seized up (it was always the left pedal which went. So I have three spare right pedals lying around).

I once complained to Speedplay and someone from America rang up to say they never get maintenance problems if you look after them and pursue regular maintenance – using grease gun and lube. I was disappointed I couldn’t buy a spare left-hand pedal to match up my surplus right pedals.

If you do buy Speedplay, it is really essential, you learn to grease and lube regularly; I wish I had done earlier.

Why I Switched to Speedplay

My first clipless pedals were the more common Look pedals. The reason I switched to Speedplay pedals was:

1. I had some problems with my knees and (rightly or wrongly) I blamed the Look pedals and the way my movement was restricted. I liked the idea of having a large angle of float that comes with Speedplay
2. I wanted to save weight. Speedplay comes in at 205 grams and 150 grams for Titanium version. These were the lightest pedals on the market, at the time. However, the gap between the weight of Speedplay and Look has been reduced with the introduction of new models like the Look Keo. At 240 grams + cleats they offer good value for money at only £39.99
3. Very aerodynamic – pedal is small surface area.
4. Cleats are easy to set up. I always found the Look cleats a bit fiddly to get in the right position. If they were slightly out, it could cause problems. Speedplay are much easier to set up because of the greater degree of lateral movement.
5. Optimal power transference because the pedal is encased in the shoe with minimal stack height. Whether there actually is better power transfer, I don’t know. But, it does feel good.
6. I like many aspects of  Speedplay Zero Aero – and may buy if I get back into racing.

Using Speedplay

I have been very happy with the Speedplay. They are definitely a little strange when you first test them. But, it is amazing how quickly you can get used to the large float. Cycling with Speedplay feels very natural. Some might feel the large degree of float makes it harder when sprinting.

Difference between Speedplay X and Speedplay Zero

The Speedplay Zero, are essentially the same as the X series, but you can control the amount of float, offering more adjustability than the Zero, which are always set to maximum float. With the X, I always end up brushing against the side of the cranks. It means my cranks look polished (removing any decals). Also, I wear through overshoes very quickly.

The two series are not interchangeable, which is a bit of a pain. Since I started with X, I don’t want to make the transfer because it would be too expensive. But, if I could start again, I would choose the Zero series.

With Zero, Speedplay suggests one option is to use the ‘Heel-In’ adjuster so that it didn’t hit the chainstay and to open the ‘Heel-Out’ to the full float. I have to say, I’ve never used the micro adjuster, but it makes sense to prevent heel hitting chainstay.

Speedplay  Zero Aero Pedals

• Axle – titanium
• Weight pair – 158 grams
• Three precision cartridge and needle bearings
• Designed for aerodynamics with small frontal area and dimpled cleats and underside for maximimum aero advantage.
• Used by Bradley Wiggins in his successful World Hour Record of 54.526km on 7 June 2015 when he rode at 33.88mph to break hour record.
• Speedplay Zero Aero at Wiggle

Drawbacks with Speedplay

1. Cleats Expensive The X Cleats are expensive to replace. £31 at wiggle. I think these are the most expensive cleats. To be fair they do last a long time. I’ve had to replace about three times in six years. I try and avoid walking on cleats, but I find that it is the metal spring in the cleat which wears away first. Speedplay are unique in having the attachment mechanism in the cleat itself rather than the pedal. Hence why they are expensive.

2. Bearing System. Speedplay say that they deliberately choose a more fiddly system to get better performance. They use three bearings and it needs more maintenance than standard pedals. But, they claim the cost of extra maintenance enables them to get a better performance. Because the bearings are more prone to have problems you need to do two things.

• Grease at regular intervals. This means using a grease gun and squeezing in grease into the centre of the pedal.
• Lube the pedal in between greasing. When it’s wet, it’s advisable to put lube into pedal and also squirt a bit on cleat.

3. Too much lateral movement. With the X Series, the lateral movement of your feet mean that you keep brushing against the cranks – On my cranks I always end up polishing off the outside

Speedplay X – Stainless Steel

• Zero to 15 degrees of micro adjustable float
• Easy cleat set up and adjustment no need to adjust any springs
• Dual sided entry is good. Easy to get in and dismount. Never had any real problems either getting in or out. Though if you get mud on your shoes, it can become difficult until you get rid of the surplus mud. I once bought the coffee cleats, but found it required too much effort to remember to bring them and use them. They remained largely unused.
• Very good clearance. Also, they have a low stack height, this means the shoes is closer to the pedal that many other pedal types.
• 206g total weight. (The titanium pair are 150grams) I use the Titanium pair for racing and the stainless steel for ordinary riding.
• Speed play at Wiggle

Speedplay – Chrome-moly

• After losing a few speedplay pedals to ceasing up, I bought the cheapest Cromoly pedals, they are only a few grams heavier, but nearly £40 cheaper.
• You can pick up a pair of X5 for £75 at Wiggle
• The main advantage of the Stainless steel over the Chromoly is that they look better over time.
• After a winter’s use, they do look a little battered, the Stainless steel look better. But, for winter training bike, you don’t worry about the shiny polish on your pedals.

Speedplay maintenance

Speedplay pedals need careful attention. These are the essential maintenance tips for Speedplays, I wish I had followed these from the first time I bought them. It has been expensive not following maintenance procedures.

Greasing Speedplay Pedals

The most important job is to add grease into the pedal every  500 -1,000 miles or after serious rain. I probably do it every month. After losing a few pedals, I’d rather err on the side of caution

For this job, you need

• A small screwdriver to remove screw on outside of pedal
• A grease gun, and grease. Speedplay have an expensive specific grease gun at Wiggle (£39) surprise Speedplay is expensive! I bought a speedplay specific grease gun and Speedplay grease lube, but you might be able to do the job with just a normal grease gun.
• Alternatively use a 5ml syringe, which is perfect for fitting into the pedal and use a small tube of grease for refilling the syringe.

This is where you squirt the grease in.

• Now comes the fun part. With a grease gun, force the grease through the pedal.
• This was hard work, you need to keep the grease gun held against the pedal. I found a lot came out the wrong side.
• Eventually, you should see some dark dirty grease coming out the other side. This is somehow very satisfying and makes you to start enjoying the job. When the thick dirt grease stops coming out, that means you have filled pedal with nice new fresh grease.
• Now the pedal should spin without friction. They should be some resistance from the grease like liquid.

It’s quite nice to have a pedal which is now spinning properly.

I find it easiest to fill up a syringe with a small tube of grease

Lubing Pedals

After wet or muddy rides, Speedplay advise adding lube to the pedals. They don’t advise using wet lube like GT-40 because they attract dirt.

They have a specific SP lube – which they say dries quickly. Unlike most speedplay products, it’s not too expensive $6. But, you should get the same results from a similar dry lube.

Lubing Cleats

I find it is less important to lube the cleats, but, if they get stiff or after a very wet series of rides, it’s good to use some lube one the metal clip.

Overall

• It’s easy to have a bit of a love hate relationship with Speedplay. When they are good, they are very good. When they’re bad, they are very bad.
• If you want low cost, low maintenance bike equipment, I strongly advise against Speedplay.
• If you want the best pedals and don’t mind paying the cost and undertaking the necessary maintenance – Speedplay may be the best choice.
• Pedal choice has always been a personal issue, and it’s worth trying to test out pedals and see which work for you.

Would I buy again?

Yes, I’ve committed to the Speedplay option because in many ways it works for me, and I’m reluctant to start switching over to a new system.  I complain about the price of buying new pedals, but it just makes me more determined to apply the necessary maintenance schedule.

Which is better X or Zero?

Again, because I started with the X (full float) it never made financial sense to switch to zeroes. However, if I started again, I might prefer the Zeros because I would limit the amount of float inwards to stop shoes hitting chainstay.

Related

• Speed play at Wiggle
• Speedplay at Chain Reaction Cycles
• Speedplay.com

The post Speedplay pedals review long term appeared first on Cycling uphill.

One challenge with 100 mile time trials is working out how to carry enough fluid. I’ve done 100s on two bottles, but often felt it was insufficient and suffered as a result. A rear mounted saddle is a good place as it is generally out of the wind.

An important note is to make sure the bottle is secured. I have had experiences with bottles ejecting themselves. Make sure you test over suitably bumpy roads – before the big race!

Most aerodynamic position for a bottle

I’ve seen quite a few aero tests and suggestions that the optimal position for a water bottle is in this order

1. Between the tribars at the front of the bike (Tribar mounted waterbottle)
2. Behind the saddle (rear-mounted)
3. On the downtube
4. On the seat tube

The first two have little aero drag. Some claim that having a bottle between the arms on the tribars reduces aerodrag. On the downtube, aero drag could cost 45g for a standard water bottle (according to tri-radar)

Testing water-bottles depends on how the bottle interacts with the frame and rider. Some TT bike designs have been specifically designed to make the water bottle more aerodynamic.

Rear mounted bottle cages are also said to be quite good in limiting aero drag, so I thought it would be good to get one. I did use one many years ago, it might have been my first 100 mile TT in 2005. But, the bottle jumped out and I never got to drink it. I think I threw away in disgust and have never revisited rear bottle mounts until a few years ago

Bontrager Race Lite Rear Cage Holder

I bought a Bontrager Race Lite Mount rear mounted bottle cage. It cost £35 from a local bike shop. The advantage is that you can have two water bottles or one in the middle. It also has two places to screw in CO2 cylinders.

I have chosen to have just one bottle cage.  It’s fairly easy to set up and fairly sturdy. (It weighed 170gram with one water bottle.

The difficulty I had is that with the Adamo saddle, there is limited room to fit. This means I had to have it at an angle of 45 degrees. I would preferred to have it at 90 degrees because the bottle would be less likely to fall out.

This is a drawback of the Adamo saddle. – A comfortable shape for long-distance timetrialling, but you have to be careful which water bottle system you get.

Since I first posted this blog, I have got a new saddle. A Dash saddle, which still has a long tail making it hard to get a bottle vertical.

However, it is quite aerodynamic and easy to set up.

My concern about use long-term is that it is all held together by four Allen bolts. Two gripping cage to saddle. And two holding angle of the cage. I am testing in training, and its held up, though there is some small degree of slip. They really should have bolts on the other side of the side screws. You want to check pre-ride.

Strong Grip bottle cage for rear set up

I chose a Gorilla X-Lab water bottle cage and ditched the Bontrager because it has extra gripping power. I think this is important for rear mounted bottle cages at an angle. The risk of bottle ejection is quite high. I have used the Gorilla X-Lab bottle cage for many races and it is very reliable in having a strong grip. In fact, sometimes, you have to get used to the stickiness of the bottle cage.

By contrast the first time I used this Bontrager Rear Bottle Mounted Cage  the bottle ejected 5 miles into the ECCA 100 mile, 2014. It is relatively cheap compared to others)

Xlab Delta 400

I have also been testing this XLab Delta 400, hoping it would be better than the cheaper Bontrager version. Firstly, it is quite hard work to set up. You need a suitable sized spanner to hold locking nut in place. However, this time of set up gives a very strong and sturdy set up (more reliable than Bontrager). The angle of cage is also adaptable, though it is limited by my saddle.

It is a pretty secure system. If you tighten to correct torque, you will have no problems.

Unfortunately, compared to the Bontrager it holds the bottle lower down, exposing more of the water bottle to the air. So although it is lighter, better built and a lot more expensive, I am better off using the Bontrager because it will be more aerodynamic.

X-Lab 400 rear mounted at Wiggle £79. –

The X-Lab Super Wings seems to hold up bottles higher.

Profile Aqua rear mounted bottle cage

This has a different design and works well with the popular Adamo saddles. It is similar to the Bontrager system, but has a different fitting system which makes it easier to fit

• Profile design  £.9948 at Wiggle

Stopping bottles jumping out

• Firstly have the bottle cage at 90 degrees, don’t risk anything like 45 degrees – even if it is easier to get to.
• Choose a water bottle which is tight-fitting on the bottle
• Be wary of using carbon fibre bottle cages which are more prone to breaking. You’re better off choosing a standard sturdy bottle cage rather than a 17gram special lightweight.
• If you think it might fall out, try putting an elastic band around the bottle. This will make the bottle wider and more sticky. (Though it didn’t work for me!)

Other points about using rear mounted bottles

• In long distance time trialling – hydration generally outweighs any aero penalty.
• Weight isn’t such a big issue.
• Another issue is that in the race, you can forget to drink. When you are so absorbed in the effort of racing, it can be hard to pick up a bottle from behind the seat. This is another advantage of water bottle between the tribars – you can’t forget about it because it’s always in your face. If you do have a bottle behind the saddle make sure you don’t forget about it.
• Test before a race! Go for a ride over bumpy terrain and see if your bottle stays in. If you test in a race you might find yourself one or two bottles down.
• Always be prepared for mechanical mishaps. Even if you are carrying three bottles, ideally you will have a spare one by the side of the road, just in case one does fall out.
• Make sure you tighten the bolts to the correct torque. This will make it less likely to fall out.

In triathlon community, the X-Lab rear mounted bottle system has good reviews. It offers quite a comprehensive choice of carrying options. Its design also means it fits nearly any saddle.

I was put off by the cost £69.99. But, if you are going to be doing a lot of long distance cycling, this may be a good option.

• X Lab rear mounted bottle at Chain Reaction Cycles

Conclusion

I’m using Bontrager water bottle cage, but I’m not entirely happy with it. It’s not 100% secure and I had to buy alternative water bottle cage (Gorilla). But, it does OK in aero testing.

Related

• Tips for 100 mile time trialling
• Ways to improve aerodynamics

The post Rear mounted bottle cages appeared first on Cycling uphill.

I’ve been a big fan of clip-on mudguards for many years. However, they do have a habit of breaking after several years of use. Parking bikes in Oxford is a bit rough and tumble, so these flexible mudguards tend to get a bit battered.

With my rear mudguard snapped in half, it was a good excuse to upgrade to the latest model – Race Blade Pro XL.

The main issue for clip-on mudguards is – can I get them to stay in a good position without them starting to rub the tyres or part of the frame? The front mudguard is often a testing challenge because on my old racing bike (Trek  1000 from the 1990s) has quite a small clearance between wheel and front fork.

This model of Race Blade XL comes with a small Allen key to adjust the settings of direction and length of the mudguard. This allows for considerable adjustment and a good degree of accuracy in adjusting the mudguards. It is also quite secure as you can tighten up the bolts quite tight. The other part of getting the setup right is fixing the bracket to the front fork and rear stays. It comes with one strong rubber gripper.

Aweakness is that the mudguard clips don’t quite fit the rear stays or fork. It does not fit flush, but grips either side. I looked in the manual and there was a very small picture suggesting you can adjust it. But for the life of me, I couldn’t see how to do it. It looks rigid and not able to change. However, although aesthetically it is a little disappointing, it doesn’t really matter, as the grip is strong enough not to move – even though it doesn’t fit quite properly. I ride over rough cobbles and bikes paths with no discernable movement.

I parked my bike in town and it seems the Race Blade XL is quite popular. Another user had same issue of not quite fitting rear stays.

After a few days of use, I have had the odd rubbing of mudguard on the front wheel, but some further adjustments and it seems no problems.

The clearance at the back is quite good – you can see the flap adds considerable distance.

The drawback to these easy to fit mudguards is that there is no protection from brake to the down tube. This means you get some spray towards the down tube and your trousers. But, for riding in a pack of cyclists, they are very good.

WIth a RRP of £49.99, they are quite pricey, but I have seen them on sale for £29.99 – a considerable reduction from the RRP.

Conclusion

They are a good buy. They are easy to fit and provide excellent coverage. You won’t get any snide comments riding in a pack. They also seem a good upgrade on the similar model I bought several years ago.

SKS Race Blade Pro at Evans

SKS Race Blade Pro at Wiggle

The post Race Blade Pro XL Mudguards Review appeared first on Cycling uphill.

It all amounts to whispers from the past and, in the absence of direct testimony, you place your subjective impressions above any reality. Muffled opinions in between the course codes and obscure regulations. The funny thing is whenever I met the late John Woodburn, he would always tell me how he had to start a time trial with a working bell, and when he got around the corner from the start-keeper, he would throw it off in disgust. It’s a shame I never asked about his times racing with Alf Engers. It never occurred to me, but that’s one of the many things I learnt from the book.

The thing about legends of the past is that you never quite know fact from fiction, exaggeration from reality. Timetrialling doesn’t tend to throw up too many characters; it’s a sport for the nerds and obsessive attention to detail. A rock star in a sheepskin coat who snubbed his nose up at the stuffy RTTC by riding too fast has all the makings of a great story.

When I heard Paul Jones would be writing a book on Alf Engers, I thought somehow that this was a match made in Heaven. If ever a writer could do justice to a biopic of ‘The King’, it was P. Jones – who can make even sparsely populated hill climbs sound exotic and exciting. Except with Alf – ‘Heaven‘ is perhaps not quite the right epitaph; more like a “match made in Heaven – with a touch of the devil’s mischief thrown in for good measure.”

If there is a drawback to the book, it is short. I read in two days. But, it reminds me of the pastor who gave an interminably long sermon of two hours – and when asked why his sermon was so long, he responded that he didn’t have time to make it short. Brevity is the soul of wit and all that. The benefit is that the book moves along at a great pace, evoking the spirit of the times from post-war Britain to the slow evolution of parochial time-trialling. At last, I have a direct understanding of Engers. – What made him tick, what he did for the sport, the great battles of the past – all within the context of today. It was like finding out that Robin Hood is a real historical figure, and he was a pretty decent bloke to boot.

As a story, you couldn’t make it up. It is hard to understand why a full-time baker could be banned from the sport for five years (age 22-27), because he had one failed season as an independent. It seems the spirit of amateur endeavour were lost in the rules, regulations and prejudices of the time. It is Alf’s comeback which is really the riveting part of the book. National records, complaints, counter-complaints, detractors and supporters in equal measure – it is all told with great pace, humour and sympathy to the rider who was breaking both records and pulling the RTTC out of its carefully controlled past.

Overall it is a great read. It evokes the spirit of Alf Engers and the interesting times which he lived through. The book is unashamedly told with sympathy to Alf’s perspective, but this is not to detract, it is about time Alf gets to tell his story in a suitably appealing way. The book successfully weaves anecdotes, stories and quotes from Alf within the context of the time. It is more than just about Alf Engers. To really understand the Engers story, we have to appreciate the atmosphere of the period. It is a book which leaves you hungry for more and is an essential read for anyone who considers themselves part of the time trialling community, but will appeal to a much broader audience. It is a human drama, which happens to occur within a world of drilled handlebars and self-transcendence in athletic endeavour.

There is probably another point of view. The ‘North London Mafia’ and suits of the RTTC would undoubtedly tell a different version of history, but I cannot imagine it would make much of an interesting read. Nobody can deny ‘Life lessons from Alf Engers’ is at the very least a lively and thought-provoking story.

Alf Engers – how to buy at Traumfahrad

***

If I can post one self-indulgent remark. There is one error in the book on p.111 the author writes about the Bristol South super-hilly 28 mile time trial, which ‘no-one thanked us for’ I beg to differ. It was the best and most memorable time-trial of my career.

The post Alf Engers – ‘I Like Alf’ – book review appeared first on Cycling uphill.

The sound is quite pleasing (a bit like a glockenspiel) and quieter than an ordinary bell. The ringer is also small and the first few times when I reached for the bell I missed the ringer at first glance. This was due to my reflexes being used to reach for my previous bigger bell. After getting used to the new position on handlebars it is fine.

(update: after 18 months of use it broke)

Optimal sound of a bicycle bell

Sometimes when I ring an ordinary bell, people jump out of their skins which probably makes them think ‘Bloody cyclist using my roads e.t.c.”

But then, on the other hand, you can ring your bell three times and the people are immobile – standing in the road or cycle path; when you go past, they mutter sarcastically ‘Don’t you have a bell?’ The problem with this bell is that it is quieter than ordinary bells. On a windy day on the footpath or during noisy traffic, the sound is easily lost in the environment.

When using this cycle path by River Thames I often timidly ring my bell because I don’t want to sound like a menacing cyclist wanting people to jump out of the way. But, when I timidly ring the bell, they often don’t hear.

This Knog bell is quite good if you want to err on side of not ringing too loudly. The sound is certainly not threatening, but at a distance might not be heard at all. The problem is if people don’t hear, the bell becomes a mere ornament.

Fitting

The bell fits handlebar sizes 22mm – 31.8mm diameter. It was easy to attach.

Durability

I have had problems with old bicycle bell breaking. The internal spring mechanism goes. This seems simpler design just using the shape of the bell to create the sound. It looks good quality machine drilled metal.

Value for money

I got a free bell for review.

At £13.99 you can definitely find cheaper bike bells. For an extra £10, it does offer value added compared to another bell.

Review

Overall, I do like the stylish design of this bell. It takes up less space and the sound is pleasing. On my battered old commuting bike, such a stylish accruement is a little lost, but if I upgraded to a vintage bike, this would fit in quite nicely. The main conundrum is of optimal sound for a bike bell. Sometimes people don’t hear an ordinary bell, this one at a lower volume is more prone to that problem. But then, on the other hand, when I had a loud bell, I often tried to make it quieter. I think it really needs to be a bit louder to be useable in all conditions.

The ideal bell would have an option for variability in volume.

Bell on Training bike

I’ve never used a bicycle bell on a training bike. Who wants to put a big old bike bell on their Trek Emonda? But, this bell makes it a possibility. It would fit into the style of a road bike whilst leaving space for Garmin, lights and hands on the handlebars.

Lead cyclist in Marathon

Once a year in Woodstock, NY I act as the lead cyclist in the Sri Chinmoy Marathon around Rockefeller State Park. It involves spending three hours of cycling very slowly and ringing a bell to warn lapped cyclists the lead runner is coming through. This bell would be ideal for that particular job as the sound is just right.

Photos

Old bike bell

New bike bell

Bike bell

Bike bell from overhead blends into stem and handlebars.

Long Term review

After six months, it broke, but I was able to fix the ringer. However, after 18 months, it broke again (no longer made ring) I couldn’t see how to repair so I threw away. Dissappointing as a bell should last much longer than this.

Related

• Knog Bike Bell at Amazon.co.uk
• Oi Bike Bell at Knog

The post Knog Oi Bike Bell – Review appeared first on Cycling uphill.

Leg cramps were more common when:

• After a day of no cycling and complete rest.
• When it is hot and more likely to be dehydrated. (I used to always get them in August in NY where it is hot and humid)

Avoiding leg cramps

1. After big training block, try to keep doing some cycling to keep the muscles ticking over. I guess this is one of the logic behind active recovery on ‘rest days’
2. Stretching the calf muscle sometime during the day. – especially important on days of no cycling. A simple calf stretch is to stand facing a wall with back straight. Keep your heel pressed to the floor and extend the leg until you feel a pull in your leg.
3. Avoid getting dehydrated during the day and take on extra salts. In particular magnesium is said to be important for avoiding leg cramps.

Trace Minerals

These trace minerals were recommended to me by a long distance running friend. They are reassuringly expensive at £22 a bottle.

It doesn’t taste particularly good, but is said to be a natural, pH neutral electrolyte replacement. Low on sodium, it contains naturally occuring electrolyte replacements from Salt Lake. It  maintains pH Balance in the Body. One serving contains:

• Magnesium 250mg 63% DV
• Chloride 650mg 19%
• Sodium 5mg – 1%
• Potassium 3mg – 1% Sulfate 40mg
• Lithium 1.5mg
• Boron – 1m

I forgot to take it for a few months, but recently had a leg cramp (after 3 days off the bike and on a hot day). I thought I would start taking this again to hope the magnesium prevents the leg cramps.

• Trace mineral drops £22. at Amazon.co.uk

There might be several cheaper options – from what I understand magnesium is the most helpful mineral to prevent leg cramps. Stretching is of course free.

Related

• Tight hamstrings and exercises to loosen

The post Leg cramps at night appeared first on Cycling uphill.

One reason for a post like this, is that I can spend ages googling details of different products, and before you know it hours have passed. However, when you come back to it a few days later, you can never seem to find the useful pages that you had a few days ago. Even now, I can’t re-find some pages I had on Saturday. Putting it in a blog, hopefully serves as a useful reference.

Generally Google is very good, but if you’re searching something very specific like the weight of Dura Ace Di2 vs Ultegra Di2, you often don’t get what you are looking for, and many hours are wasted in a vain search.

My philosophy for writing blogs is to write something, that I’d like to read myself. Hopefully if it’s useful for me, it will be useful for others (although this one, will be limited to those if you’re contemplating electronic shifting)

(By the way, after writing this post, I got Dura Ace Di2 9070 and have been using it on my timetrial bike. See review here Dura Ace Di2 9070)

Ultegra Di2 v Dura Ace Di2 price

Firstly, the difference in price seems huge:

• Dura Ace 9700 Di2 is RRP £2,999.99 (discounted at Merlin cycles for £1,999). Mechanical Dura Ace 9000 is by comparison £999 (at Ribble)
• Ultegra 6870 Di2 is RRP £1,999 (discounted at chain Reaction cycles £979). Mechanical Ultegra 6800 is RRP £999 (Chain reaction £538.99)

But, when I go to Trek Project One – bike builder to upgrade from Ultegra 9870 Di2  to  Dura Ace 9700 Di2, it is an extra £1,970. For some reason – through Project One, they have made Dura Ace Di2, an extra £2,000. The problem is that £2,000 seems an awful lot of money for a groupset which is fairly similar to Ultegra apart from 300g, slightly more sleek design and greater flexibility in terms of shifting positions.

Difference in quality

Reviews suggest that the new Ultegra Di2 offers excellent shifting, with barely noticeable difference in the quality of shifting with Dura Ace.

• Velonews Ultegra Di2
• Cycling weekly Ultegra Di2

Difference in weight

• Dura Ace 9070 Di2 groupset 2,047 grams (bicycling) (This compares to mechanical dura ace at 2,072, and previous Di2 of 2,219g)
• Ultegra 6870 Di2 – around 2,680g – though I seem to remember seeing one lower.

Dura Ace Di2 has to be lighter to justify the difference in price. If we included just the mechanical parts, the difference in weight is just 149 grams. /

For the whole groupset (including non-mechanical groupset) Bike Radar say Ultegra 6870 Di2 is 2,680g for a complete group. This means Ultegra Di2 is roughly 440g heavier than Dura-Ace Di2.

But, you can save some weight by swapping the non-mechanical parts like crankset, brakes and cassette.

Crankset

• Ultegra 6870 – 700 grams (775g with BB)
• Dura Ace 9700 – 632 gms  (weight weenies)

Brakeset

• Ultegra 6870 – Weight: 335g (Set)
• Dura ace 9070 – 295g

Cassette

• Ultegra – 212g
• Dura ace  -166g

11 speed chain

• Ultegra Weight: 253g
• Dura ace 243g

Again from Velonews

On our scale, the shifters are 57g heavier, the front derailleur is 43g heavier, and the rear derailleur is 49g heavier.

• Shifters: 315g (DA: 258g)
• Internal wiring harness: 43g
• Battery with bottle cage mount: 113 g (70g without mount. DA uses same battery)
• Front derailleur: 167g (DA: 124g)
• Rear derailleur: 271g (DA: 222g)

Differences between Dura Ace Di2 and Ultegra

• Ultegra design less sleek, more ‘bulbous’. Some loss of aerodynamics
• Dura Ace Di2 offers multi-position gear changes, useful to TT bike, where you can have them on the ends of handlebars and end of tribars.

Compatibility

Both Di2 are 11 speed and said to be non-compatible with 10 speed (different chain width). This is annoying as 10 spd is more than enough; personally, it means changing a lot of cassettes and then having a pressure to upgrade road bike to 11sp too. Companies are good at getting you to spend more on upgrading to new products, you don’t really need.

Note: I put a 10 speed 56 chainring on my Dura-Ace 11 speed and it works fine.

Extra note

Dear Shimano + Campagnolo. Please – don’t bring out a 12 speed! we don’t need it. Don’t even think about a 13 speed.

The good news is that the new Ultegra 6870 seems to be compatible with the new Dura Ace 9700 Di2.

Related links

My review of Dura Ace Di2 9070

• Dura Ace Di2 9070 at Wiggle
• Ultegra 6870 at Chain reaction cycles
• Dura Ace Di2 at Amazon.com
• Shimano Di2 at Carlton Bale

The post Dura Ace Di2 vs Ultegra Di2 appeared first on Cycling uphill.

If any cyclist epitomises the spirit of British cycling it is Chris Boardman.

• Domestic time triallist, multiple national champion – from national hill climb to national 25 mile TT competition record holder.
• Olympic track cyclist. Gold medal in 1992 Barcelona Olympics (Britain’s first gold on track for 72 years).
• Three times world hour record holder.
• Multiple world champion on road and track.
• First British wearer of yellow jersey since Tom Simpson in 1968.

Even post-retirement Boardman has hardly stopped.

• Key figure in development of British Cycling as dominant force in track cycling post retirement. Worked in British Cycling’s ‘Secret Squirrel Club’
• Founder of Boardman bikes.
• Leading spokesperson on cycling advocacy.

Boardman has an impressive CV, and one thing you pick up from autobiography is a restless, inquisitive chap with boundless energy. The book could have been labelled the ‘many lives of Chris Boardman.’

Chris Boardman ‘Superman position’

Obssessive sportsman

It’s not all about listing off achievements. You get an insight into the difficult years, poor results and also Boardman’s obsessive sportsman personality. The most interesting thing in book is how post-retirement, he became more aware of different perspectives of approaching life – a more rounded approach than obsessive self-oriented goals of a sportsman. For the many sporting obsessives who get sucked into their own career and performance would benefit from reading Boardman’s perspective. One important aspect of the book is Boardman’s attempt to find balance in life – something he’s not always been successful in doing.

***

My favourite part of the whole book is the confession that – the night after his wedding – he got up at 5.30am to do a hill climb on ‘Nick ‘O Pendle’. It wasn’t even a national championship – it was an open event but the only chance to ride course before the big event later in the year. This is dedication to the hill climb cause. A few weeks later (1988) Boardman who the first of his three national hill climb titles on the Nick O Pendle.

***

Boardman rode through one of the darkest eras of professional cycling. Turning pro in 1993. Leaving the sport in 2000. It was an era of insufficient drug controls, and and explosion in the use of new drugs like EPO. I’ve read so many ‘confessional drug autobiographies’ I took a vow – after reading Tyler Hamilton’s book – I would never read another. I’ve had my fill of doping confessionals for a lifetime, so it is kind of rare to read an autobiography from that period where you can have faith in the athlete. Boardman writes very little about doping per se. He briefly mentions the unpredictability of results and how in late 1990s, unexpected riders could suddenly start to produce very impressive time trials. Boardman noted how it got harder and the speed in the mountains was something he could never live with (despite obsessions over weight). Boardman’s main point is to describe how (after he crashed out of 1998 prologue) the Festina crisis exploded a few days later. He writes this directly after ‘the unpredictability of results’. But, that is about it. It would have been interesting to hear more thoughts on this subject, but from what I’ve heard Boardman always said he didn’t want to risk his health, and that’s about it.

***

Conclusion

I read the book in a few days, and it is worth buying. It provides an interesting and humorous look at Boardman’s life and career. It also provides a good overview of the development of British cycling from the late 1980s to the present day. Although, it comes from one person’s point of view, it is as good as any for understanding the evolution of British Cycling.

Related

• Chris Boardman on hill climbs
• Chris Boardman’s autobiography at Amazon
• Chris Boardman autiobiography at Waterstones

The post Chris Boardman – Autobiography – Review appeared first on Cycling uphill.

Cycling Climbs of South West England at Amazon.co.uk

More interesting is to review the climbs themselves. For me, the region can be split in two. The first is the ‘deep’ South West – Cornwall, Dorset and Devon. Places which I am yet to visit on a bike.

The second section is the ‘north east’ of the South West – Gloucestershire, Wiltshire and Somerset. This section has climbs which feel like an extension of my own local roads. I’ve raced up Burrington Combe so often, I have developed quite an affinity with ‘The Combe’ and other roads around the Mendips.

From the book, the climbs of Devon and Cornwall looks enticing with notes of 30% ramps, and picturesque settings. The book includes Gold Hill, the village of Hovis ad fame. I would like to visit with my bike sometime. The only drawback is getting to that part of the world. Haytor is definitely on the bucket list because it was once used in the National Hill Climb Championship and is the kind of hill that would suit a tall gangly guy who goes well on Burrington and Cheddar Gorge.

Moving up to Somerset, and we have the triple climbs around Minehead; Pollock Toll Road, Pollock A road (super steep) and Dunkery Beacon. I’ve been up all three, though rather irritatingly when I twice raced up the Porlock A Road, I had a Garmin malfunction on each occasion. I don’t believe the modern mantra of “If it’s not on Strava, it doesn’t count” but the digital record does seem to add an additional verification these days.

Porlock Hill

Anyway, Pollock Toll Road is rightly lauded as an excellent climb. I even can spy a small photo of myself at the start of Pollock Toll Road in 2015. If that isn’t reason to give the book five stars, I don’t know what is.

Further north-east and the book even extends into the Cotswolds and Dover’s Hill. A climb which was the venue for 2010 national (and others). In fact, on a good day, I can just about cycle to Dover’s Edge from Oxford and be back in time for tea. It’s not quite mammoth audax riding territory, but just about in range for an ordinary Oxford cyclist.

100 Climbs APP

• 100 Greatest climbs at Apple store | at Google Play

Also of interest is the news that there is a 100 climbs APP. I got a copy and downloaded for my iPhone. As mentioned in the post “making a living online” – I’m surprisingly Luddite when it comes to mobile technology and Social Medial, Presently, I’ve not got very far with the APP. This is not a reflection of the APP, but me. The main use of my phone is to receive missed calls from PPI salesmen, and occasionally get text messages from my Mother asking ‘are you alright?’

I did see I had completed 40 out of 100 climbs, which brought up that modern phenomenon of ‘non-recorded digital regret’ for not recording a course record on the Cat and Fiddle e.t.c. on a stupid Garmin. Still, I intend to do more climbs sometime.

Overall, if you live within striking distance of the South West, and you like cycling up hills, this is a good book, which will appeal to those. Although quite a simple format, I find myself flicking through looking at the climbs, and just at the moment I prefer the old fashioned paper to the modern screen.

Related

• 100 Climbs
• Cycling Climbs of South West England at Amazon.co.uk
• Greatest Cycling Climbs of South West England at Waterstones

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Highly puncture resistant tyres usually have a trade off of greater weight and higher rolling resistance (i.e. slower) but the slight decline in speed is well worth the greater peace of mind that comes from having less punctures.

These are some of the puncture resistant tyres that I have used over the years.

Armadillo – Specialized All Condition

The tyre feels pretty tough – it is a very robust 60 TPI (Threads per inch) – which is very different feel to the racing tyres of 300TPI. It’s toughness makes it very resistant to small scratches and glass cuts. It gives more confidence for commuting on a rought canal path. A minor downside of its toughness is that it’s a bit awkward putting on rim with fingers, but then you rarely have to change a puncture. It claims to be designed for low rolling resistance; but, in practice it feels heavy – it is is noticeably slower than a Grand Prix 4000. But, I am quite happy using it on my commuting bike and have also added to the rear wheel on my winter training bike, at various times.

I have been using them for over seven years (5 days a week) During that period I have had three punctures and one was a 6 inch nail. Roughly speaking its a puncture rate of 3 / 9,000 miles or 1 per 3,000 miles. It’s also pretty hard wearing, I get maybe 3,000 miles on rear and 5,000 miles on front, which is a long time for a commuting bike. At £30, overall this is a very good value tyre which offers excellent puncture resistance.  It really is a good investment and one of my favourite.

Weight (approx)

• 23″ – 375g
• 25″ – 395g
• 28″ – 440g
• Specialized Armadillo All Condition Tyres at Evans Cycles £30

Schwalbe Marathon Plus

This has one of the strongest puncture resistance and is almost impregnable. Pictures show you can put a drawing tack in middle and it doesn’t penetrate to the inner tube. It comes with an extra layer of rubber which resists even a drawing pin. It is quite heavy at between 600 -900 grams, but, this is because of the thickness of the rubber. If you really want a very strong puncture proof tyre, this has one of thickest layers of protection. It has a heavier rolling resistance (but doesn’t feel totally dead), but you won’t be buying it so you can be light and fast. I have only had one. I did approx 4,000 miles without a puncture (I can’t be certain of mileage, but it was on a commuting bike for a good 18 months. It is geared more towards the hybrid bike market.

At £30 for a tyre, it is a good investment in time saved and cost of new inner tubes.

Weight

• 595g (700 x 25c),
• 750g (700 x 28c)
• 810g (700 x 32c),
• 900g (700 x 35c)

• Schwalbe Marathon Plus at Wiggle £30

Schwalbe Durano Plus Performance Tyre

This is the road bike version of the Schwalbe Marathon. It is slightly lighter than the previous tyre – but still heavier than your average tyre. It offers very good puncture protection with only slight decline in rolling resistance. Despite the marketers claim, you definitely wouldn’t race on this as the extra weight would be a handicap, but if you are sick of getting punctures on your training bike this is one of best protection you can get. Good for training bike, very low ratio of punctures.

• 700x23c – 410g
• 700x25c – 450g
• 700x28c – 530g
• Durano Plus at Wiggle

Faster Puncture Resistant Tyres

Continental Ultra Gator Skin

The other tyre I like to use on my winter training bike is the Continental Ultra Gator Skin (all season). In terms of puncture protection it has an aramid breaker and Duraskin sidewall ProTection. As as added bonus it has good handling properties in the wet (essential for winter riding). It also feels a lighter ride than the Armadillo. You can also get the Continental Gator Skin Hardshell (which has added layer to prevent tyres splitting)

Over the years, I have done many thousands of miles with Gatorskins on my winter training bike. The rate of puncture is pretty low – approx 1 to every 2,000 miles. In terms of rolling resistance Gatorksins, like other Continental tyres, are pretty good.  You don’t feel the same kind of handicap with a slightly heavier Durano or Armadillo.

• TPI – 240
• Weight 25″ – 310 grams
• Continental Gatorskin

Continental Grand Prix 4 Seasons

In terms of puncture resistance and very good rolling resistance. The best all rounder is the Grand Prix 4 Seasons.  It only weighs 230 grams (23″ version), but still has 2 vectran layers and Duraskin cut reistant layer

Continental Four Seasons, weighs 250grams, but is the best Continental Tyre for resisting cuts and punctures. It has two vectran layers, plus a special tyre compound to prevent splits in the sidewall.

The older Continental 4000 were prone to sidewall splits, and there puncture resistance was not great. But, this sidewall split was five years ago, recent models don’t seem to suffer from this problem, and the tyre has become better.

• Continental Grand Prix 4 Season

Tubeless Option

After taking great interest in puncture resistant tyres, I have also tried a different avenue and have tried a tubeless option

In the past year, I have had a tubeless Hutchinson Atom tubeless tyre on the rear of my Trek Madone. I have filled with self-healing slime. I have not encountered any rear wheel punctures during the past 18 months.

Tubeless tyres are not subject to pinch flats.

If you do get a small puncture, the self-healing liquid should fill the hole and make the tyre stay pumped up. Tubeless are harder work to install, but they offer a very comprehensive option for protecting against punctures.

• Tubeless tyres

100% Puncture free tyres

Tannus Aither

The only absolutely puncture free tyres are those that are completely solid.

• The Tannus Aither comes only in one width – 32″
• It weighs: 690g (approx.)
• Solid tyre equivalent to 75PSI
• It can be retrofitted on any standard clincher rim – with pair of special tools
• Manufacturers claim it lasts at least 6,000 miles.
• Being solid, punctures are not possible, there is nothing to deflate.
• The big issue is how much slower is it? This Cycling Weekly article says just 8% more rolling resistance
• The 700x23c Musai model also weighs in at just 380g (which is not too much more than many regular tyre + inner tube e.t.c)

At under £50, it is competitively priced. In the sense that it is a small premium compared to the cost of of repairing punctures. The claimed mileage seems actually conservative.

• Tannus tyres at Wiggle

Would I want to try one?

I’m not sure. I have some attachment to regular tyres. Some puncture resistant tyres are so good, punctures are really very rare – and it’s not the end of the world. But, it’s possible these will catch on. Many

If anyone has good experiences with puncture free tyres and knows where you can get one for 700*25, I would be interested in hearing, you can leave a comment below.

Other good resistant tyres

• Bontrager AW1 Hard Case wired tyre

Other tips for avoiding punctures

It’s not just about the tyre.

The most important thing is to put tyre on without catching inner tube between rim and tyre.

See more at: Tips avoiding puncture

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